Ever since watching a stage of La Vuelta de Espana some years ago we had wanted to go to the Picos de Europa and this was the year. We had booked an AirBnB and were all set when the hairy member of our family had a medical emergency. She had a growth on her leg which burst requiring surgery. It wasn’t all bad as our host was agreeable to postpone our stay for a week, when the weather was also much better. And Betty had made a full recovery.

As it was going to take about 7 hours to reach our destination we decided to take a break half way there in the pretty Asturian fishing village of Cudillero. It’s quite touristy simply because it is so pretty. Near the harbour there are a cluster of restaurants and the one we chose, La Paloma was a good choice. One dish we went for was gulas and gambas. Gambas are prawns but gulas? They look like baby eels but I was later to find out that they are in fact processed fish paste. Anyway, they tasted great. We also had that staple of Spanish cuisine, hake.

We then drove on to the Picos and the first views did not disappoint.

We settled into our accommodation which was in the barrio of Riu, itself just north of the village of Arenas de Cabrales, one of the main entry points to the Picos. The house itself was very comfortable with a small garden for Betty and great views.

That night we popped into Arenas for a drink. For some reason the town square was packed that night but not the following night.

We were also treated that night to an amazing full moon.

We normally like to go on decent hikes on our holidays but because Betty was still recuperating from her operation we decided to take it easy. The following morning we drove to the nearby village of Sotres, the highest village in the Picos de Europa and just went for a short, 3km stroll. However the views were amazing.

Although there were a few tourists about, the local hostelries had decided it was out of season and so many were closed. We had lunch in the only place open, The Hotel Rural Restaurante Peña Castil.

In the afternoon we left Betty to recuperate and went to a local cheese factory. After all, the famous Spanish Cabrales cheese is named after this town. We got to a local factory and managed to raise the owner who showed us his sheep and goats.

Unfortunately we didn’t get to see any cheese being made but he invited us to sit and said he would bring some for us to try. With a bottle of local cider as well of course. We were a bit surprised that the cheese wasn’t blue but it was very tasty. We had a variety of aged goats’ and sheeps’ cheeses, and a mixture of the two. We were joined by a feathered friend who thought the cheese was tasty as well!

While we were sat there we were observed by another rather rarer bird. A cuckoo.

The following day was to be the big one: The Cares canyon. However, this was to be too far for Betty so we gave her a short walk in the morning before leaving her at the house.

The trail along the Cares Canyon is one of the most popular and dramatic walks in Northern Spain, so despite being relatively off season we thought it would still be rather busy so we headed there the day before in the early afternoon to check it out. Sure enough there was a string of parked cars lining the narrow entrance. However, we noticed near the start of the trail there were a few gaps. Some people had come early in the morning and had already gone. So we decided to come the following afternoon when we could get a park near the start of the trail. But what to do for the rest of the morning? Well we decided to drive to Potes, another attractive Picos town and also an attractive drive through a steep canyon. Big mistake! No one had told us that they had embarked on major road works through the canyon causing a huge traffic jam. We got as far as la Hermida which was pretty much the only place we could turn round.  Even as far as this, the canyon was stunning and while we were stopped we could get out of the car to observe vultures circling above.

So we turned round and stopped for lunch at Bar La Cortina in Panes for a cheap Menu del dia before heading off to the Cares canyon. As planned, we managed to drive past a huge line of cars to find a space right near the start of the trail.

As it is 11km long (and therefore 22km there and back) we certainly didn’t go the whole way but what we did do was spectacular. And being the afternoon, not so many other walkers about.

And even better near the start, or finish, of the trail there is a cafe so we rounded off the walk with a welcome beer!

That night we settled on having a picnic back at the house.

Our short holiday was almost over but I had planned a short stop on the way home for something else Asturias is famous for: cider. We stopped at the cider museum in Nava and very impressive it was too. As well as informative there was also a few “interactive” exhibits, including the chance to pour cider the Asturian way, i.e. from a great height. We came away with a few bottles as well.

Just one more stop before home and that had to be a final seafood meal. This time in the pretty port of Luarca and the restaurant at the Hotel Baltico.

 

More photos here