Kashgar
The southernmost metropolis of China’s New Frontier, Kashgar (Kāshí) has been the epicentre of cultural conflict and cooperation for over two millennia. Modernity has swept in like a sandstorm. A paved Silk Road preceded an airport and in 1999 the Iron Rooster arrived, along with many Han Chinese. Taxis and motorbikes are everywhere, and much of the old architecture is giving way to the new. This is the guidebook description from 2010. It was very different 17 years earlier. After…