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Category: India

Ellora

Ellora

Yes, another early start! The caves were supposed to open at 6am when it was pitch black but when I arrived at the gate at 7, there were only a few people around, so I immediately headed for the showstopper of the site  Cave 16: Kailashnath. From here I headed right to the earlier caves 15-1 and then retraced my steps to cover 17-33 before coming back to spend more time at Kailashnath and that is the order of the…

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Indomitable fortress and a pilgrimage

Indomitable fortress and a pilgrimage

After exploring the Ajanta caves in the morning, I took a couple of buses and was dropped off at my next destination: Hotel Kailas, Ellora (2,800Rs). The hotel is very handily placed right outside the gate to the Ellora caves but I wasn’t going to squeeze in two World Heritage Sites in one day, I chilled in the afternoon after a very tasty okra curry (bhindi masala) because I was up first thing in the morning again, for two slightly…

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Ajanta Caves

Ajanta Caves

Time for takeoff India 2025, Maharashtra Tour. First stop The World Heritage site, Ajanta caves. But how to get there? Well a few firsts first. First time I’d been to Munich (admittedly just the airport), then first time on the huge Airbus double decker, A380 and first time Premium Economy (even though I’d flown Business class a few times!). So I arrived in New Delhi at 1am, a few hours kip before the last legs, a 4am flight to Aurangabad…

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Goa

Goa

So I got the overnight train from Hubli to Goa. My ticket was to the end of the line – Vasco da Gama station arriving at 6am. However, I utilised a top tech tip that had been a real boon on this trip. Maybe not so new to more tech savvy readers, but this India trip was the first one I had made really good use of google maps on my phone. I could have been completely lost but when…

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Hampi

Hampi

Unlike most people’s conceptions of India, there are plenty of areas with a thinly spread population. Northern Karnataka is one such place. Subsequently public transport is rather sporadic, something I had already experienced. So for my next leg I decided to splurge 3500Rs (£35) on renting a car (with driver) for the 150km/4hr trip to Hampi. The first part of the trip was along narrow potholed roads across agricultural land – mainly sugarcane but also jowari which I found out…

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Badami

Badami

My previous post starts with the problem of getting a bus from Bidar to Bijapur and the fickleness of non existent timetables. this post will be no different. the previous day I’d been told there was a bus from Bijapur to Badami at 6.45am. Arriving at the station at the appointed time I was then told there was no direct bus but I had to get the 6.45 bus to Kerur and change there. That would arrive at platform 4….

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Bijapur

Bijapur

Sun 19th Feb 2023. I was up and about early and off to the bus station. I’ve often found in the remoter parts of India, bus timetables are a fickle thing. The guidebook may say one thing, people at the bus station say another and then the actual buses confound them both. Today I was told there was a bus to Bijapur at 9.30 but someone else said it was better to get the bus to Gulbarga and change there….

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Bidar

Bidar

After a four year hiatus, I was back in India. This time, I was to explore northern Karnataka concentrating on the architecture of the Deccanni sultanates and the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar, finishing up with a few days in Goa. First up was Bidar, now a small town in the middle of nowhere but formerly the capital of a great Muslim kingdom of the 15th and 16th centuries.  It was a bit of trek to get there because as it…

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Jaipur

Jaipur

My latest trip to India was almost at an end. I was up early and checked out of the hotel, the Bundi streets were strangely quiet first thing in the morning, as was the station, but the buses were still running and I managed to catch one to Jaipur just as it was leaving. The roads were surprisingly quiet as well so it only took four hours rather than the five and a half I was expecting. Jaipur and its…

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Chittorgarh & Bundi

Chittorgarh & Bundi

Getting the bus from Udaipur to Chittorgarh was no problem. Semi-deluxe, that’s a laugh but I got a seat. The journey was pretty boring, just views of major road works everywhere and dust. The station in Chittorgarh is across the river from the old town so I managed to avoid the trishaw drivers and just walked across the bridge observing the hill fort in the distance. I found my designated hotel, Hotel Ganesh, pretty easily. Their website describes it as the best…

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